More Than A Postcard: Tourism & Tradition in Lake Atitlán, Guatemala

Lake Atitlán, located in the highlands of Guatemala, is more than just a stunning natural landscape which “draws in more than 300,000 tourists every year” (NPR). Villages dot the shores, home to various Mayan indigenous communities, each distinct with their own characteristics - from the traditional clothing they wear to the unique Mayan language spoken.

Once part of a volcanic crater, formed more than 80,000 years ago, the lake’s history is as layered as the hills that surround it. Travelling here, you are a visitor to a space that transcends time, with traditional textile activities, customs, sacred ceremonies, myths and stories, which go back centuries, still present and demonstrated in and around the lake today.

Tourism changes according to a local from San Juan La Laguna

[Interview translated from Spanish]

Angelica Mendoza, who has grown up in the village of San Juan La Laguna - the most colourful town on the lake - says that “in the last 3 years tourism has changed rapidly”. She believes that social media plays a significant role in attracting more tourists.

The people in the village are very connected to nature, following traditions which go back generations - for example, using plant medicine. Angelica explains the significance of the lake as more than just a body of water, but a form of identification for the village and its people. Al Jazeera reported that “after 14 people were massacred at the lake in 1990”, during Guatemala’s civil war, “when the Guatemalan army opened fire on civilians, the women submerged themselves in its waters to wash away their troubles”.

There are many tourism initiatives in the village focused on preserving the town’s heritage. As well as this, in local schools they teach the Mayan language, Tzutujil, and make cultural activities a priority. A law in San Juan prohibits outsiders from purchasing land within the municipality - to ensure the income stays local, limit the number of expats and large-scale development projects, which have taken place in other parts of the lake. Angelica explains how “this has enabled more families to own their own businesses, instead of searching elsewhere for employment, in other countries or cities”.

With increased tourism comes challenges. The streets are increasingly busy because of the influx of tourists, and there is more pollution too, she says. As a young person, she also recognises the benefits of the exchange of culture and perspectives. Local people can meet international volunteers or visitors and learn from them. And locals can run demonstrative workshops and events that allow tourists to discover the Mayan culture.

NGO efforts and regenerative tourism in Santa Cruz La Laguna

Jessie Cohn, Director of Amigos De Santa Cruz - an NGO aiming to improve the lives of indigenous people through education - arrived in the lake 10 years ago. She says, “it was still a great place to visit then, but it was not what it is now”. They’ve seen a steady increase in tourists, but a larger influx post-pandemic, which could be tied to the rise in digital nomads.

Although San Juan may have a rule requiring businesses to be locally owned, Santa Cruz is seen as a “backward town of the towns around the lake”, mainly due to the “lack of accessible roads”. San Juan and San Pedro are towns where tourism has developed in a way that’s benefited the local community - for example, more investment into education.

Amigos de Santa Cruz started 26 years ago, post-civil war, with a small group of foreigners collecting donations for school supplies - the first of which were given to children in second or third grade. The said children are now leaders of the staff, says Jessie, demonstrating “long-term generational change”.

Over the years, “the programs have grown and evolved to meet the changing needs of the population”, focusing on “education and economic empowerment”. They started a community tourism project to help develop local tourism infrastructure, including training community guides (the first ones in Santa Cruz!) and improving hiking trails. The organization has helped develop home stays and other tours to bring tourism benefits directly to the local community - women can demonstrate weaving, coffee-making, and more.

Amigos is opening a primary school, focused on incorporating local indigenous culture and language, with a trilingual curriculum – including Spanish, Kaquikel, and English, as well as Mayan local dress and customs. They want to help children have the skills necessary to live in today’s world, while also leaving room to embrace and celebrate their heritage.

Santa Cruz La Laguna, Guatemala

“Previously in Santa Cruz the tourism was down at the bottom, the lakefront, in mostly foreigner-owned hotels”, Jessie explains. Amigos is hoping to bring that up to the local village. Foreign owned businesses are now employing more local guides too.

But, if we look at San Marcos, we can see some of the more negative effects of tourism in the lake. This is a place that has become a hippie heaven, almost a cultural vacuum - where spiritual seekers come for sharing circles and to practice yoga. Tension has risen due to many locally owned businesses being replaced by foreign-owned ones; only 10% is owned by San Marcos natives.

“Many people come here and fall in love with how beautiful it is and how welcoming the community is. But it’s a small community, which for many years was closed off”, Jessie says about Santa Cruz. “Foreigners must keep that in mind if they decide to live here, as they will never fully be a local in the community - not because people reject you, but because you’re just not”. Amigos’ aim is to help the people in Santa Cruz to realize a better future than the one their parents had.

A local tour guide’s view on tourism

[Interview translated from Spanish]

A local guide and artist from the village of San Juan, Francisco Vasquez, says that certain parts of the culture are changing due to tourism. For example, he has noticed that the maternal language of the village is slowly disappearing, as the people do not practice it like before. His grandparents believe that the Mayan language should be a priority. From them, he learnt the beauty of co-existing with the planet - working with it, conserving it. For example, “you ask permission to cut a tree, or before taking a fish from the lake - it’s about respecting nature”.

As a tour guide, he has “not seen any person speak badly about the culture”. Yet, he emphasises the need for tourists to accustom themselves with the custom of “saludar” - greeting - i.e. “buenos días/buenas tardes” - and “no ser timidos” (don’t be shy), to not be perceived as rude, and to value the work of the indigenous people.

Art is an extremely significant part of the culture in San Juan. It is inspired by Mayan themes and the natural beauty of Lake Atitlan. You will find art studios lining the streets, and artists who are very keen to share their work. Francisco hopes visitors learn about the work of the indigenous women especially, by attending female-run weaving collectives, chocolate and plant medicine workshops, and stingless bee tours!

He believes that locals catering to tourists’ demands is the reason for San Juan’s growing tourist population. Whereas, other towns only speak their Mayan language, and don’t receive the same access to education - making it challenging for those areas to communicate with and attract tourists.

Despite the negatives, tourism is extremely significant for the lake, as Francisco says it builds a connection between the outside world and indigenous communities - enabling social and economic support, where it is needed. “It’s important that people know us, our traditions and customs”.